Chippy Paint Finish: Ball finial

Hi, it's tutorial time again! I thought I would go ahead and put together a tutorial for the ball finial, just in case you wanted to see a smaller project done. Doing the lamp was quite a doozie, something small like this might be easier to start with.

I'll be doing this tutorial with out the guidance of Tim, although I really had fun! Did you guys see that he commented on the lamp post? How awesome is that?

Comment from Tim Holtz: Check.

Tickled pink I tell ya! It doesn't take much to make my day!

Ok, on with the project.

Supply List

-Project piece (In this case concrete ball finial)

-Spackle (any brand will do)

-artist pallet knife or putty knife

-Acrylic paint in White and Burnt Umber

-Tim Holtz Distressed Paint in Picket Fence

-Paint brushes

-Sealer in flat finish

Concrete garden finials are a perfect project piece. Concrete already has a pretty rough texture, and the Spackle only amplifies it
I don't have a nationwide source for concrete finials, sorry, I bought mine at a local business here in Missouri. I recommend trying gardening centers and home improvement stores for interesting concrete statuary. Of course, after this technique it is no longer suitable for outdoors, keep that in mind too.

Start by smearing the Spackle over the ball. I did not prime the concrete, I saw no reason to, and went straight into the spackling process.

Coat as much as the surface as you wish, again, the concrete is pretty rough already.


After the Spackle has dried completely, coat the entire piece in burnt umber. Now you may wonder, why coat the entire piece brown, just to go back over it in white. Well, because of the uneven surface that we have created, it will be impossible to predict where the white paint will go. Dry brushing the white is pretty swift and random, you don't want to have to worry about whether the burnt umber is in the right spot or not.



Be sure all the crevices are filled, see the white specks in the picture below? More burnt umber is needed, those specks will most likely be what is revealed.


After the burnt umber is dried, dry brush on white. I didn't feel the need to wait over nights with this project {unlike the lamp}, maybe because of the size and substance, I moved along pretty quickly from step to step.





After the white paint has dried, proceed with the Tim Holtz Distressed Paint in Picket Fence. This is really where the magic happens. Again, use it sparingly for a natural look.


Beautiful!


Right now, I have the finial under an old clock dome and have been really enjoying it!

If you have any further questions, e-mail me...I'll get right back with you (asap)!
If you try this technique, let me know, I'd love to see!
And as always, if you use this idea, be kind, please link back to me. Thanks!

Chippy paint finish: Lamp

Hi everyone! I'm glad you're back! I am happy with all the interest in the paint finish, so I finally finished putting a tutorial together for the chippy paint finish that I featured on my ball finial and lamp. The technique is the same for both projects, but I am concentrating on the lamp in this tutorial.

I have lived with both of these projects and I have been really happy.
Here is what you will need to recreate the chippy paint finish for the lamp:

-Project piece (In this case brass lamp)
-primer (metal primer if finish of lamp is metal)
-Spackle (any brand will do)
-artist pallet knife or putty knife
-Acrylic paint in White and Burnt Umber
-Tim Holtz Distressed Paint in Picket Fence
-Paint brushes
-Sealer in flat finish


Meet Tim Holtz

Cute Hu?
I really love admire this man. He is talented beyond measure. If you are not familiar with Tim Holtz, I encourage you to visit his blog and website. You will soon love admire him too! He has created an entire line of products typically used for Altered Art and scrapbooking (all you artist knew that, hu?) including Distressed Paint. His distressed paint is just one of his products that I have fallen in love with. I typically use it in my collage work and it is really amazing! It is a one step crackle finish. That in itself is amazing.
Ok, let's get on with the project, let's look at Tim one more time. Scroll up. pause. scroll down, ok let's go!

Brass lamps are usually abundant in your local thrift stores, but for this particular finish, I recommend a shape that has a large field. Meaning big areas of smooth surface. Such as this:


I would not recommend a lamp like this:


Take off harp and tape off socket and cord



Here is the type of metal primer spray paint I use

Spray entire lamp and let dry



Looks better already!!


Now here is the part where you must be fearless!


Using your pallet knife, start smearing on the Spackle. I recommend a pallet knife because it is small and easier to handle than a putty knife



Because of the detail on the lamp, I used my fingers
to get the Spackle in the pearl detail







Now Spackle dries fairly fast and you will use this to your advantage. Constantly work with the Spackle until it is textured but still smooth. Use your hands to basically knock off all the rough parts. Also , you don't want knife marks either, blend those away too...

Do not use water. It really isn't necessary. If for some reason the Spackle dries too quickly, use some 120 grit sand paper to knock off any texture or rough spots that are unwanted, Be easy though, we do want smooth texture.


After the Spackle has dried completely, you'll know cause it's got that dusty effect...coat the entire lamp in burnt umber. You will need to do several coat to get in all the crevices.
Next do a dry brush technique with white over the entire piece. I used an artist brush to do this. Sponge brushes will not work for the dry brush technique.

Your lamp should be looking like this:



At this point the paint needs to cure. Let it totally cure overnight. The "damp" feeling should be totally gone.

Oh look, here's Tim again! He's checking on our progress! Hi Tim! I'm about to use your distressed paint...thanks for checking back in!





He really thinks we are doing a good job!
Now, using the distressed paint is really easy, there is a built in brush in the bottle, but here are a few things to remember:

-Use it sparingly. Don't go crackle crazy or it just won't look natural.
-the more paint you use the bigger the cracks, the less paint the smaller the cracks. Use a combination of the two.
-All you do is paint it on, the crackle will happen my itself.
-Some of the larger cracks will come off. That's ok. I personally like the effect, but you can go back over an area once it's dry.

Drying time is approx. 20 mins. the full effect in less than 30 minutes
Just look...

I really love the effect!

Is that not beautiful?

It almost looks tree like...

Give your lamp another night to really cure.

Finally, give it a coat of flat (or satin) poly. Any brand is fine, just pay attention to the finish.

I used flat and you can't even tell it's sealed but it is. I didn't want any shine on the final piece.
Find a shade for your beautiful masterpiece, because I also believe that updates a lamp too, and you are going to enjoy this! I love just looking at it!

Tim is back! That stinker! He's looking at the final result! I think he likes it!!!

I hope you do too! You can do this!!! Try it!

If you have any further questions, e-mail me...I'll get right back with you (asap)!

If you try this technique, let me know, I'd love to see!

And as always, if you use this idea, be kind, please link back to me. Thanks!

Bye Tim, I think I'll go watch one of your demos on you tube now!

I hope you inspired!

Shipping Tag Placecards

Do you remember my shipping tag place cards? Well I'm finally getting around to showing you how to do them. It's pretty cut and dry, but I think the result is very nice. I like the handmade feel of them. I think I just might get a nod from Tim Holtz, the tag master, himself!!! Just kidding, this is pretty elementary stuff for him! But if you have limited time, limited resources, and limited funds -this is perfect!

Shipping tags are available at any office supply store, very inexpensively. I purchased a couple of different sizes. I keep them on hand for quick gift tags, scrap booking, or leaving my husband little love notes...no not really-scratch that last idea...:)

In my rubber stamp collection, I have a number of leaf stamps, I selected the maple leaf in 3 sizes. Any motif of your choice would be fine.

Coffee staining is super simple, I feel kind of silly explaining it, but just in case you don't know......make yourself a 'coffee' bath (with instant coffee & hot water) in a bowl or dish large enough to completely submerge the tag(s) in. Be sure to have a kitchen towel ready to lay out the tags, I like to do a lot at a time and you'll need some space. After the tag has had a dip, and is laying flat on the towel, sprinkle some coffee crystals on while it's still wet...I like to wait a few seconds and blot off the excess liquid. After the tags are dry, which is a surprisingly short time, you are ready to stamp! Go for it!

I used actual printer blocks, but if you have alphabet stamps, that works great too. I used them on the smaller tags

I stamped the first initial of our names and then used a sharpie to hand write the rest



On the smaller tags, I stamped an entire name

This is a very simplified kind of tag. You can get as creative as you want. Can't you just see these on your Thanksgiving table?

So there you have it: Super simple place card tags in a jiffy! Thanks for visiting me!

Don't forget to get your name in the hat to win my Gingerbread Men!

Blogged for Susan at Between Naps on the Porch

and

Kimba at A soft Place to Land